Plant Services for NYC Offices & Homes

Have a plant question?

Will — Wed, 07 Mar 2012 01:43:23 +0000

Indoor plant expert Will Creed has answered thousands of specific plant questions on AllExperts.com.

To see these questions and his answers, go to: http://en.allexperts.com/q/House-Plants-721/indexExp_36113.htm

Mealybugs on Myrtle topiary

Will — Sun, 04 Mar 2012 16:57:26 +0000

Your description is not very specific, so it is hard to be sure. However, your Myrtle topiary probably has an infestation of mealybugs, which are often described as looking like a fungus. Mealybugs look like tiny bits of soft cotton. The only other possibility is a spider mite infestation that would cover the leaves with tiny webs.

In general, Myrtle topiaries do not thrive indoors in winter because they prefer lots of fresh air and sunlight. Because they are under stress when indoors, they are more susceptible to pest infestations.

Mix a solution of 5 parts water, 1 part isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and a squirt of liquid soap. Then thoroughly spray the entire plant so that all leaf and stem surfaces are dripping wet. This thorough, but messy, spraying is essential so that there is direct contact with all of the mealybugs, including the juveniles that are nearly invisible. If you miss a few they will reproduce and the infestation will return a few months from now. If you are really thorough, one treatment should be adequate.

For the winter months, try to give your Myrtle as much direct sunlight as possible and allow the soil to dry deeper into the pot than you do during the outdoor summer months. Water them based on need rather than by the calendar.

I have written an article on treating plant pests that I will email for free to you (or anyone else) who sends a request to me at wcreed@HorticulturalHelp.com.

Pruning

Will — Sun, 04 Mar 2012 14:39:50 +0000

Pruning potted plants is more about aesthetics than it is about horticulture. Pruning does not “enhance” a plant’s growth. It does alter its growth and its appearance. So asking if you should prune your Schefflera is like asking someone if you should get your haircut. In both cases, there is no right-or-wrong answer. It is a matter or personal preference.

As with many plants, when you prune a Schefflera stem, new growth will emerge just below the point on the stem where you make the pruning cut and grow upward from there. So you have to decide how far down on the stem you would like to see new growth emerge. If you prefer to keep a plant shorter and more compact, then regular pruning is recommended.

When you prune, stems should be cut just above a “node” – the slightly raised bump on the stem where a leaf stem attaches. The new growth will emerge from that node, so you don’t want to leave an unsightly stump above the node.

When pruning, you can prune back a lot and alter the plant’s appearance radically or you can take a more gradual approach by pruning back on or two stems every few months. The important thing to remember is that no matter where you prune, the plant will continue to grow, albeit in different locations.

The hardest part of pruning for most people is overcoming the fear that pruning will somehow harm or even kill the plant. That fear is not warranted. So plunge in a prune because you really cannot go wrong!

I have written an article on pruning that I will email for free to you (or anyone else) who sends a request to me at wcreed@HorticulturalHelp.com.

Peace Lily root rot

Will — Fri, 02 Mar 2012 16:55:16 +0000

I have had a peace lily about 4 years. The leaves are turning black, and get really wrinkly. I have cut off leaves like this, and new shoots are coming out. But now more of the leaves are turning black. I’m thinking the plant has some sort of fungus. Can it be saved? Do I toss the plant and start over?

Hi there,

From your brief description, it is likely that your Peace Lily is suffering from root rot. Root rot usually occurs slowly over a period of time and without obvious symptoms until the problem is serious. This is a common problem with Peace Lilies because they wilt so pathetically when they get a bit too dry that most people end up watering too often in order to avoid the wilting. This over-compensation leads to the insidious root rot that occurs out of sight. Root rot is not a fungus or disease. It is caused by not allowing the soil to dry out sufficiently between waterings.

There is no easy fix or cure for root rot. Replacing the soil does not work. Fertilizers and anti-fungals don’t help. All you can do is allow the soil to dry out to the point where your Peace Lily starts to wilt. (Note: If it is already wilted and the soil is wet, then the roots are completely rotted and you should discard the plant.) Then, add a small quantity of water – enough to get it to perk up again within a few hours, but not so much that it takes more than 4 or 5 days to reach the wilt point again.

If the roots are still viable, then allowing allowing oxygen into the root zone via this drying out process will allow the roots to slowly recover. Only after the roots recover will you see significant improvement in plant foliage growth.

I have written an article on Peace Lily care that I will email for free to you (or anyone else) who sends a request to me at wcreed@HorticulturalHelp.com.

Treating fungus gnat problems

Will — Sun, 13 Nov 2011 20:53:11 +0000

The first thing you need to do is remove all loose soil that is not in direct contact with the roots. This will eliminate many of the gnat larvae because they mostly live in the surface soil.The most important thing to do is to allow the soil to dry as deep into the pot as possible. How deep will depend on the plant species and the size of the pot. Most folks do not allow the soil to dry deep enough into the pot and that is where they get into trouble with root rot as well as gnat larvae. Using a pot that is too large also contributes to this problem. Gnat larvae depend on lots of moisture to survive. Deprive them of that moisture in the surface soil and they will die without any further treatment.After removing all loose soil, you can add a thin layer of Diatomaceous earth or builders sand. These sharp-edged substances work physically (not chemically) by carving up the tiny larvae as they move through the soil. It is true that Diatomaceous earth does tend to clump after it is wetted, so sharp sand may be a better choice. Mixing it into the top half-inch of soil may also work although it tends to dilute its effectiveness.If all this fails, and it shouldn’t if done properly, then you can use a biological agent (Bt) to kill the larvae. It is found in a product called Gnatrol that is sold through Amazon.

The psychology of plants

Will — Tue, 30 Aug 2011 23:36:27 +0000

Many of us have intuitive reactions to our indoor plants that cause us to do (or not do) certain things with our plants that are not always in the best interest of the plants. Below are some examples.

A plant appears to be unhappy so we assume it needs more water. That is the quickest and easiest thing for us to do, so that is what we do. Unfortunately more times than not the plant’s problem is not due to lack of water and may even be caused by too much water.

Folks who are nurturers like to do as many things for their plants as possible. They repot too often and over water and over fertilize. They end up killing their plants with kindness. In most instances of plant care, less is better.

We tend to think that when it comes to potted plants, bigger is better. Lots of hefty growth is a sign of success. True enough that a big plant has to be healthy to get that way. But small plants can also be healthy and are often more attractive. Unfortunately, the bigger is better approach usually leads to a failure to prune and that ultimately leads to badly overgrown plants that lean, fall over, push up against the ceiling and take over the house. Regular pruning is essential to keeping your plants manageable in size and attractive looking in the space you have assigned them to.

We also believe that if a little of something is a good thing, then more would be even better. So we tend to provide too much water, too much fertilizer and use pots that are too big. When it comes to water, fertilizer and pot size it is far better to err on the side of less or smaller. Let the soil dry out deeper into the pot. Dilute the fertilizer to half strength. Up-pot only if absolutely necessary.

We love quick and easy solutions. That is why fertilizers are so appealing…and over used. Fertilizer is not medicine and should only be used for healthy plants that are growing vigorously and never for ailing plants.

We project our own (human) feelings onto our potted plants. So we think that pruning is like amputation and should be avoided. If our plants are not doing well, we assume we are causing pain to them and feel terribly guilty ourselves.

When faced with plant pest infestations, we want to nuke those critters with the most lethal of substances so they never come back. Those heavy duty pesticides in our arsenal are not only hazardous to use and harmful to the environment, but they are no more effective than carefully applied non-toxic remedies such as soap, alcohol and oil sprays. The results may not be as dramatic, but they are more effective in the long term.

We overestimate the available light in our homes. Because a large window has a large sunny window, we assume that there is lots of good light for plants throughout the room. In fact, light intensity drops off dramatically with every couple of feet of distance from the window. Few plants will survive for long across the room from a sunny window.

We believe that some plants are virtually indestructible. While it may be true that some plants require less light than others and some plants can go a long time without water, all plants species will quickly decline if they are not given proper light and water.

To be successful with plants, it is sometimes necessary to check out own human reactions to plants care and do what is best for the plant.

What healthy plants require

Will — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 21:02:05 +0000

Most everyone knows that plants require good light and water to thrive. But few folks understand the importance of air for plants. Or at least they tend to take it for granted.

While it is true that plants obtain carbon dioxide and some oxygen through their leaves, plants must also have air circulating around their roots. We remember to provide water for the roots, but sometimes overlook that the soil and roots must also have air.

Soil saturated with water (right after watering) has little or no air (oxygen) available for the roots. The roots can receive oxygen if the soil is allowed to dry out sufficiently for air to re-enter the tiny spaces or pores between the soil particles.

That is why proper watering is just as much about allowing the soil to dry out as it is about adding water. If the soil is not allowed to dry out well into the root zone, then the roots will be deprived of air and will start to rot. Although a single watering will not cause roots to rot, keeping soil constantly wet over a period of time will cause root rot and that is usually fatal to a potted plant.

Proper watering is based on knowing when the soil is dry enough to add water. So remember to add air to your plants by letting the soil to dry out properly

Ficus dropping leaves

Will — Sat, 18 Jun 2011 00:36:30 +0000

Question:	I have a ficus tree given to me a month ago. My tree is losing leaves. I am not sure if I am over watering it. I tried watering it from the top but it seem I never could get the soil moist, so I started watering it from the bottom. The leaves now feel as though they have too much water but the top of the soil is dry. The pot is probably 12 inch round, the plant about two and a half to three feet tall. It is a Ficus Benjamina I do believe. It was sent from a florist. I have several questions, 1. was watering it from the bottom a bad idea and 2. Is it possible that it has root rot 3. Should I repot it and if so how do I go about doing it. The plant sits in a very sunny window but not in direct sunlight. It is still producing new leaves
Answer:	Ficus trees are notorious for shedding lots of leaves each time they are relocated. That is because their leaves are very sensitive to even small changes in light intensity. As long as you locate your plant very close to and in front of any uncovered window, then it will gradually adapt, although it may take several months or more. Look for healthy new leaves as a sign that it is adjusting. Allowing the soil to dry out deep into the pot will also cause leaves to yellow and fall off. However, I suspect in your case that is not the problem. It is okay for the surface of the soil to dry out, but it should still be moist starting about a half-inch to an inch below the surface. Top watering is best when the top inch of soil is dry. Water slowly all over the surface until a small amount trickles through the drain holes into the sauce. After a thorough watering, it usually takes about a week for the top portion of the soil to dry out enough to warrant watering again. Watering from the bottom is not a bad idea, but top watering is easier to manage. Your tree would have to sit in water and have the soil completely saturated for more than a month for the roots to rot. Do not repot – it doesn’t need a larger pot and it is already dealing with the stress of adjusting to its new environment. I have written an article on Ficus tree care that I will email for free to anyone who sends a request to me at wcreed@HorticulturalHelp.com.

Question:

I have a ficus tree given to me a month ago. My tree is losing leaves. I am not sure if I am over watering it. I tried watering it from the top but it seem I never could get the soil moist, so I started watering it from the bottom. The leaves now feel as though they have too much water but the top of the soil is dry. The pot is probably 12 inch round, the plant about two and a half to three feet tall. It is a Ficus Benjamina I do believe. It was sent from a florist. I have several questions, 1. was watering it from the bottom a bad idea and 2. Is it possible that it has root rot 3. Should I repot it and if so how do I go about doing it.
The plant sits in a very sunny window but not in direct sunlight. It is still producing new leaves

Answer:

Ficus trees are notorious for shedding lots of leaves each time they are relocated. That is because their leaves are very sensitive to even small changes in light intensity. As long as you locate your plant very close to and in front of any uncovered window, then it will gradually adapt, although it may take several months or more. Look for healthy new leaves as a sign that it is adjusting.

Allowing the soil to dry out deep into the pot will also cause leaves to yellow and fall off. However, I suspect in your case that is not the problem. It is okay for the surface of the soil to dry out, but it should still be moist starting about a half-inch to an inch below the surface. Top watering is best when the top inch of soil is dry. Water slowly all over the surface until a small amount trickles through the drain holes into the sauce. After a thorough watering, it usually takes about a week for the top portion of the soil to dry out enough to warrant watering again.

Watering from the bottom is not a bad idea, but top watering is easier to manage. Your tree would have to sit in water and have the soil completely saturated for more than a month for the roots to rot. Do not repot – it doesn’t need a larger pot and it is already dealing with the stress of adjusting to its new environment.

I have written an article on Ficus tree care that I will email for free to anyone who sends a request to me at wcreed@HorticulturalHelp.com.

Peace Lily repotting

Will — Sat, 18 Jun 2011 00:27:57 +0000

Question:	I repotted my Peace Lily and it has not returned to its normal state. It has been drooping drooping.
Answer:	Repotting is not something I usually recommend. That is because it is often unnecessary and because a lot can go wrong if it is not done properly. You haven’t provided any details, so I can only suggest some things that may have gone wrong. If you thoroughly saturate the soil and the leaves do not perk up, then that means the roots are no longer absorbing water because they are rotted. Unfortunately, rotted roots are a fatal condition. How could the roots have rotted? If you repotted to a pot that was too big and/or the soil was too heavy, then the added soil will stay wet for too long and deprive the roots of oxygen that they need to survive. If the leaves do perk up after the entire rootball is saturated with water, then the drooping was caused by lack of water around the roots. When repotting, it is importnat to loosen the outer portion of the rootball and to use a damp, porous potting mix to surround the original rootball. If you fail to loosen or use dry potting mix, then when you water most of the water goes to the added soil and not to the original rootball where the roots are. Another common mistake people make when repotting is to rinse away and replace all or most of the original soil. This process usually damages all the fine root-hairs that do most of the work. It is a rare Peace Lily that can recover from the trauma of soil replacement. I have written an article on when and how to repot and an article on Peace Lily care that I will email for free to anyone who sends a request to me at wcreed@HorticulturalHelp.com.

Question:

I repotted my Peace Lily and it has not returned to its normal
state. It has been drooping drooping.

Answer:

Repotting is not something I usually recommend. That is because it is often unnecessary and because a lot can go wrong if it is not done properly. You haven’t provided any details, so I can only suggest some things that may have gone wrong.

If you thoroughly saturate the soil and the leaves do not perk up, then that means the roots are no longer absorbing water because they are rotted. Unfortunately, rotted roots are a fatal condition. How could the roots have rotted? If you repotted to a pot that was too big and/or the soil was too heavy, then the added soil will stay wet for too long and deprive the roots of oxygen that they need to survive.

If the leaves do perk up after the entire rootball is saturated with water, then the drooping was caused by lack of water around the roots. When repotting, it is importnat to loosen the outer portion of the rootball and to use a damp, porous potting mix to surround the original rootball. If you fail to loosen or use dry potting mix, then when you water most of the water goes to the added soil and not to the original rootball where the roots are.

Another common mistake people make when repotting is to rinse away and replace all or most of the original soil. This process usually damages all the fine root-hairs that do most of the work. It is a rare Peace Lily that can recover from the trauma of soil replacement.

I have written an article on when and how to repot and an article on Peace Lily care that I will email for free to anyone who sends a request to me at wcreed@HorticulturalHelp.com.

ZZ Plant Care

Will — Sat, 18 Jun 2011 00:21:22 +0000

Question:	Will, I have several ZZ Plants. They make beautiful house plants as I’m sure you know. My problem is as they mature, the taller stalks tend to flop over and break at the dirt level. Should I remove these or what ?
Answer:	When ZZ Plants are kept in sunny locations, the stems are thicker and less likely to sag under their own weight. In low light, this is a common problem with older leaf stems. Certainly, anytime a leaf stem looks unsightly it should be cut off at the base. Fortunately, new growth comes in to replace the ones you remove. Cutting off these stems will not harm the plant. One other note: in very poor light or when the soil is kept too damp, the roots will gradually die back and that will cause leaf stems to flop as you described. Once that happens, the root damage is usually too far advanced for the plant to recover. ZZ Plants can survive drought, but not constantly moist soil. I have written an article on ZZ Plant care that I will email for free to anyone who sends a request to me at wcreed@HorticulturalHelp.com.

Question:

Will, I have several ZZ Plants. They make beautiful house plants as I’m sure you know. My problem is as they mature, the taller stalks tend to flop over and break at the dirt level. Should I remove these or what ?

Answer:

When ZZ Plants are kept in sunny locations, the stems are thicker and less likely to sag under their own weight. In low light, this is a common problem with older leaf stems.

Certainly, anytime a leaf stem looks unsightly it should be cut off at the base. Fortunately, new growth comes in to replace the ones you remove. Cutting off these stems will not harm the plant.

One other note: in very poor light or when the soil is kept too damp, the roots will gradually die back and that will cause leaf stems to flop as you described. Once that happens, the root damage is usually too far advanced for the plant to recover. ZZ Plants can survive drought, but not constantly moist soil.

I have written an article on ZZ Plant care that I will email for free to anyone who sends a request to me at wcreed@HorticulturalHelp.com.